Room at Matsubaya Ryokan, run by Kimiko Hayashi and around 15 minutes walk from Kyoto JR station. Ryokans are the B&Bs of Japan and well worth staying in, not just because they're more authentic than an anonymous business hotel, but also considerably cheaper too - you're looking at about £40 per night in rural areas and up to £70 in big cities.

All follow similar styles with tatami mats and a seating area behind sliding doors; some also have a tiny garden area or water feature - this one overlooked a tiny pond with baby carp. At night the futons are unfolded onto the tatami mats. Most Ryokan don't have en-suite bathroom facilities. Instead you'll share, but some bigger ones may have an Onsen hot communal bath, which is one of the highlights of a trip to Japan. Note some Ryokan also operate a curfew, so if you're planning a big night out, you might be better off in a hotel.


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